Tutorials

Ashton Jacket Vest

Art by Hannah Freiderichs @agarthanguide on Twitter

Taliesin really loves to make us sweat, huh? But honestly, Ashton’s outfit is super simple. It’s the hair and body paint and gold slag that’s going to be difficult.

Let’s start with their jacket vest. I prefer working with patterns, since it makes writing these tutorials easier. So I searched through my stash and decided to use this pattern.

For the fabric I went with the low stretch black pleather from Yaya’s cosplay line at Joann, and this red suiting fabric from Joann.

I’m gonna be honest… This pattern is terrible for a beginner. So I apologize for that. You can also make your own pattern if you have a jean jacket vest by tracing it.

So first, I made a mockup. I use muslin for this, but you can use any scrap fabric.

This pattern has a shoulder yoke, which Ashton’s does not. So I drew my adjustments onto the mockup. Also check fit here and make any adjustments.

This is now your pattern. Seam rip and take it apart, cutting where needed for adjustments. Don’t forget to mark where seam allowances need to be added.

Now you’re ready to cut out your fabric. I used this pattern for the black pleather and for the red lining.

Double check your fit. If everything is good, sew down the seams on your pleather since it can’t be pressed

I decided to add some pockets inside my jacket. I wanted to make sure they were big enough for my phone, so I used it the measure the fabric size. Basically, cut a rectangle to the size you want, fold over the top and sew, then press sides and bottom and sew to your lining. Simple pocket.

Now for buckles. I created my fabric strips first, measuring them out to the width of the buckle. I cut two long rectangles, then sew together leaving one edge of the tube open. Turn right side out, press, top stitch. Fold in open bottom and press. This will get sewn shut when you attach it to the jacket. For the circle buckle, I measured the size using the buckle itself, then using a ruler.

Add the buckets to your jacket. Do this before adding the lining so the attachment stitching isn’t visible inside your jacket. First check placement. I did this with it on the mannequin, then double checked while wearing it.

Now… that big round buckle? It’s gravity defying as drawn. In order to compensate for this without making the buckle go the wrong way, I simply added velcro. Had I noticed this, I might have created a faux buckle that velcroed into place instead, but I didn’t.

To create the hole for the prong to go through, I simply punched a hole into the fabric, then hand sewed around the hole to keep the edges from fraying. Repeat this process for the smaller buckles. After looking at the art, I determined that they looked more like buckle slides, not pronged buckles, so that’s the direction I went.

Now it’s time to attach the lining to the pleather. With right sides together, sew together at front side. Top stitch. You can actually see this part in the image above, because I forgot to add the buckles, and had to fiddle with it to make it work.

Add the collar. This is a bit fiddly. I decided to attach the collar as normal and do the attachment stitches as decorative in order for it to be secure. But the collar extends on the right side so attachment there is a little tricky. Take your time. Also, my buckle is obnoxiously heavy, and smaller than I wanted. But it worked.

Add the leather strap to the other side of the buckle. Another bit of impossibility from the art. The buckle has two prongs, but the strap has one center hole.

Hem bottom.

Add bias to sleeve holes. I made bias out of my lining fabric. Add the giant grommets to the arm holes.

Now you can add any little details you wish. There are little drawn details on the sleeve bias that can be drawn in with marker. And also the Just Don’t on the back. There is no official art of this yet, so I’m going to hold off on adding it until that comes out, or I attend a con, whichever comes first.

Finished! All in all, this is a fairly simple design. If you have any issues, or need something clarified, please leave a comment or send me a message on IG. Hope this helps! If you use the tutorial, I’d love to see your final product.

And as always, keep cosplaying!

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