This tutorial picks up where part 1 left off. You should have a duct tape pattern made. Now it’s time to transfer that to paper. Carefully trace around your pattern as best as you can. If you’re like me and have some curves, this can be quite difficult. But it’s okay. Do your best. This is why we test before cutting out the good fabric!
After you trace your pattern pieces, you’ll want to add a seam allowance. I opted for 1/4″ to reduce bulk and because I have 20 years of sewing experience. If you’d like to add a larger allowance, it won’t hurt anything. You’ll just need to trim it later. I also tend to add a little extra length, especially to the harder to trace pieces.
You’ll also want to make notes on the pattern. Give each piece a name, what fabric to use, etc. Don’t forgot to copy your registration marks to help you line it up again.
Next, you need to test that pattern. Never trust your pattern to be completely accurate. I used muslin, but you can use any fabric you have. Just keep in mind when fitting what your pleather is like. Mine had a stretch, so I needed to make sure I adjusted a tad small to account for this.
Also, if your registration marks don’t line up, it’s okay. I usually aim to line up the top one and go from there. If a piece was from an especially curvy part, the mark might be off in the transfer process. So don’t get frustrated trying to make it fit.
Once your mock up is done, it’s time to fit it. I was able to tell pretty quickly that it was too big all around. I also didn’t like the point at the bottom of the center front piece. So I made the point more pronounced, and added 1/8″ to each seam. It was still too big, but the front fit perfectly, so I opted to make the side seams 5/8″ total seam allowance and that worked perfectly. Then I had to do a very minor adjustment near the armpit to tighten it up.
Once you are happy with the fit, it’s time to cut out your fabric! I decided to use red pleather covered in a large stretch mesh for the textured part. I cut everything out, and sewed the mesh to the pleather so it stayed in place.
Then I sewed everything together. If your fabric has stretch, don’t forget to use a stretch stitch. Since pleather doesn’t really press, I opted to sew a tiny top stitch to keep it neat.
On the back I added one of the little details by the zipper by simply adding a strip of pleather between the seams.
Now I have to make a few decisions: do I want the neck band to continue around the back, and do I want to attach the skirt to the top or the hip piece?
I hope this tutorial was helpful! Part three will continue the top, possibly finishing it depending on the route I go. Feel free to ask any questions, and follow me here or on IG or FB for updates!
Anna Stasia Cosplay 